With ‘90s rock and hip-hop jams playing overhead and skewered dishes sliding onto plates, the rhythm of Kushi & Co. meshes yakitori cuisine and street culture together.
The Japanese restaurant, situated in Bo Diddley Plaza, had its grand opening on March 4. Owned by two friends – 42-year-old chef Charlie Keller and 57-year-old Anthony Lyons, vice president of the real estate development company AMJ Inc. – the concept is bringing Japanese street food to downtown Gainesville.
Keller grew up in Long Island, New York, but he moved to Gainesville in 2020. There, he became the executive chef at Hotel Eleo and then at Spurrier’s Gridiron Grille.
Lyons, who was infatuated with Japanese culture and food, approached him \about starting their own concept.
In Japan, yakitori — a Japanese dish of skewered, bite-sized chicken pieces — is often served out of small stands in bus or subway stations. People often stop there to congregate after the work day.
Keller said he wants it to be an approachable, affordable place for people to gather together and forget about everything else.
“You could come here in a suit and tie from the courthouse,” he said, “or you can show up in boardies and sandals right out of the beach.”
Ranging from chicken thigh to miso shrimp, the menu combines traditional flavors of yuzu, sake and sesame with finishers like egg and citrus.
All of the food is made in-house with fresh ingredients, and the menu is entirely gluten-free. Even the yakitori sauce, or tare, is made with 24 ingredients but without the gluten included in traditional soy-based sauces.
Darius McPhall, 44, is a server at Spurrier’s on the weekends, and used to work with Keller. He came to check out the new spot.
He ordered the chicken and steak skewers and commented on the casual and affordable aspect.
“Excellent flavor. It came out in a reasonable time,” he said. “Nothing bad to say about it.”
Amanda Lugo, 31, found out about Kushi & Co. through the EatGNV Facebook group, which is an account for sharing Gainesville foodie finds.
She tried the skirt steak, onigiri, signature rice and tsukune, or chicken meatball skewer.
She said the new spot is refreshing and authentic compared to the other Asian restaurants in the area. The small plates and outdoor seating combine to create a casual atmosphere.
“It’s nice to see something a little different pop up,” Lugo said.
Kushi & Co. is currently open from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
Next steps include providing a catering menu, private parties and possible partnerships with UF Greek life. Kushi & Co. will soon have live jazz bands on Thursday nights.
Contact Summer Johnston at sjohnston@alligator.org. Follow her on X @summerajohnston.
